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B rits flocking to the Adriatic coast this summer have booked more than one million overnight stays, trampling Dalmatian hotspots such as Dubrovnik, Split and the island of Hvar in particular. By contrast, Rijeka, further north in Kvarner Bay, is establishing itself as a destination for those seeking an alternative travel experience. Yet this punkish, post-industrial city also has a dazzling seafront.
Local band Paraf played the first punk gig in eastern Europe here in , part of our influential punk-rock scene. I have to start with the club Palach , which opened in but was renamed in honour of the Czech anti-Soviet protestor Jan Palach in I was resident DJ for seven years. It hosts rock clinics for young musicians and biannual vinyl fairs. Round the corner is Tunel , a dark, red-lit archway under the railway where students mingle; the indie vibe gives way to house at the weekend and gigs from trip-hop to Americana.
Rijeka also has a new breed of cafe-bar-clubs. It has 80s decor and a mixed party playlist until dawn. The owner is the frontman of the hottest local band: Former ferry Botel Marina in the harbour has bars linked by the original gangways. Rijeka cuisine is famous for seafood from Kvarner bay, cheese, Prsut ham, truffles, homemade pasta from the Istria peninsula; lamb fed on salty herbs from the islands of Pag, Cres and Krk; and meat, wild game and mushrooms and berries from Lika and Gorski Kotar.
A konoba is a Croatian tavern with a simple wood and stone interior and traditional food. Konoba Fiume Ul Vatroslava Lisinskog 12, no website is a classic seafood version beside the best fish market on the Adriatic.
Fiume is the spirit of Rijeka. I come each morning to choose ingredients. Mali Salon looks directly onto Korso, next to the Radio Rijeka building. There are several organisations in Rijeka engaged in art activism. Drugo More runs Filodrammatica , also on Korzo, and Delta 5 is a group of artists based in the former factory Ivex , on the docks, with its graffiti tribute to the Clash. The city has always had an anarchic side; we question all ideologies, even our own socialist past.